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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.